Marek Krajewski

Szwajcarska niezależność
06-04-2008

Ciągle mam wyrzuty sumienia, że mimo dwumiesięcznego już pobytu w Szwajcarii wciąż wiem o tym kraju i jego mieszkańcach o wiele mniej, niż mógłbym wiedzieć.
Najwięcej zdziwienia moją niewielką wiedzą okazują nieliczni, znani mi bliżej Szwajcarzy. “Nie był pan jeszcze w Zurychu?” – pytają z niedowierzaniem. “Naprawdę, nie zna pan Bazylei?” – dziwią się, potrząsając głową. Kiedy im odpowiadam, że przyjechałem tutaj, aby pisać nową powieść, i pracuję po dziesięć godzin dziennie, dzięki czemu napisałem już połowę książki, reagują przyjazną ironią: “W takim tempie to do sierpnia napisze pan całą trylogię!”. Zdopingowany tymi pytaniami, sam siebie zapytałem, jaką differentia specifica Szwajcarów mógłbym wymienić dziś. Co odpowiedziałbym, gdyby ktoś mi kazał natychmiast i bez głębszego zastanowienia podać jedną i tylko jedną ich najbardziej charakterystyczną cechę? Wymieniłbym wtedy najbardziej rzucającą mi się w oczy właściwość tego narodu, a mianowicie odrębność.
Szwajcarzy – jak mi niektórzy sami mówili – czują silną potrzebę odrębności. Z całą mocą protestują przeciwko pomysłom włączenia ich do Unii Europejskiej. Od swojego północnego potężnego sąsiada – i jednocześnie germańskiego współplemieńca – odgradzają się czym tylko mogą: dialektem, instytucjami, urzędową wielojęzycznością, hołubieniem współobywateli włosko- i francuskojęzycznych, którzy stanowią mniejszość. Fenomenem jest jednak to – i tu przywołam opinię p. Urszuli Kropiwiec z warszawskiego oddziału fundacji “Pro Helvetia” – że mimo tej postawy splendid isolation Szwajcaria niemieckojęzyczna jest niezwykle ważną częścią tradycyjnie zdecentralizowanego niemieckiego świata: “Neue Zürcher Zeitung” jest w tym świecie jedną z najbardziej opiniotwórczych gazet, a Zurych i Bazylea są jednymi z najważniejszych jego ośrodków. Ta potrzeba odrębności jest również doskonale widoczna w mikroskali – w zaskakującej wręcz mozaice kantonów. Ich mieszkańcy traktują każdą próbę tworzenia jakiś centralnych ogólnoszwajcarskich instytucji jako zamach na niezależność kantonalną, której są gotowi bronić jak niepodległości.
Ja sam tej szwajcarskiej skłonności do precyzyjnego zakreślania własnych granic doświadczyłem całkiem niedawno, kiedy uświadmiłem sobie, jak wielka liczba stowarzyszeń, klubów i zrzeszeń istnieje w Helwecji, z których nawet grupki kilkuosobowe, które ktoś złośliwy i nie znający realiów nazwałby “kołami wzajemnej adoracji”, wydają specjalistyczny biuletyny, mają swój statut, swoje władze, a przewodniczy im zawsze jakiś Präsident lub Präsidentin.
Na posiedzeniu jednego z takich klubów znalazłem się we wtorek 1 kwietnia. W małym miasteczku Steinhausen opodal mojego Zugu sześć osób tworzy Klub Miłośników Filmów i Powieści Kryminalnych. Ma on siedzibę w miejscowej bibliotece. Nie zostałem tam zaproszony jako gość, jako autor, czy – Boże broń! – gwiazda wieczoru. Co to, to nie! Nie tak łatwo się dostać do helweckich elitarnych klubów. A mówiąc poważnie, to muszę z żalem wyznać, że moje powieści nie są tu po prostu znane, choć wszystkie poza “Dżumą w Breslau” zostały przełożone na niemiecki. Nic zatem dziwnego, że prezydent klubu zaprosił mnie na kwietniowe posiedzenie po pierwsze – za protekcją moich dobrodziejek z fundacji Landis&Gyr, po drugie – z wyraźnym wahaniem, po trzecie – nie do końca chyba wierząc, że w ogóle się pojawię.
Nie jestem na sto procent pewien, czy słusznie doszukiwałem się między wierszami maili od prezydenta klubu, Remo Ugoliniego, jakiegoś dystansu czy śladów niechęci. Może jestem przewrażliwiony, a może takiej nieufności do słowa pisanego nauczyło mnie długoletnie studiowanie subtelności greckich i łacińskich tekstów? Nie wiem, jaka była przyczyna, ale wiem, jaki był skutek – jechałem na to spotkanie trochę zaniepokojony.
Steinhausen okazało się typowym małym szwajcarskich miasteczkiem – czystym, sterylnym i wyludnionym. Mimo wczesnego wieczoru (wpół do szóstej) i pięknej słonecznej pogody trudno mi było spotkać kogokolwiek, a już znalezienie informatora było zgoła niemożliwe. Kręciłem się w kółko i nie miałem kogo zapytać o lokalizację biblioteki. Natrafiałem wciąż na niekompetentne osoby. Dwoje nastolatków, palących pod sklepem papierosy, kręciło przecząco głowami, jakiś Niemiec długo i uprzejmie tłumaczył mi, jak bardzo jest mu przykro, że nie jest ze Steinhausen i że nie wie, gdzie jest biblioteka, a starszej niechlujnej kobiecie, zagadniętej przeze mnie na przystanku, najwyraźniej pomyliły się role, bo zaczęła mnie ostro wypytywać, po co idę do biblioteki, co się dzieje w bibliotece i czy zdaję sobie sprawę, że w Steinhausen jest pięć bibliotek. Po tej ostatniej wypowiedzi uznałem, że moja rozmówczyni jest albo chora chora psychicznie, albo pijana i porzuciłem ją bez słowa. Dopiero sprzedawczyni w sklepie “Migros” wskazała mi właściwą drogę do jedynej w dziewięciotysięcznym mieście gminnej biblioteki.
Mimo, że wyjaśnienia sprzedawczyni były bardzo precyzyjne, a ultranowoczesny betonowy budynek biblioteki bardzo charakterystyczny, to znalazłem go z niemałym trudem. Zmyliło mnie to, że biblioteka wyglądała jak dzwonnica. Była bowiem dobudowana do starego kościoła i na jednej jej ścianie umocowana była olbrzymia żelazna belka z sześcioma dzwonami, z których największy był rozmiarów małego fiata.
Na posiedzeniu klubu pojawiłem się jako pierwszy. Po chwili przychodzili jego stali członkowie. Remo, Andreas, Angela, Maurizia – starałem się zapamiętać imiona. Oprócz mnie było sześć osób – trzy kobiety i trzech mężczyzn – wszyscy mniej więcej w moim wieku i wszyscy mówiący sobie “na ty” (dwóch imion nie zapamiętałem). W oczach członkiń i członków klubu, którym się co chwila przedstawiałem, dostrzegałem błysk, który interpretowałem jako kompletne i bezgraniczne zdziwienie. Moja intuicja była słuszna, bo już na początku zebrania Maurizia zwróciła się do mnie z uprzejmym uśmiechem: “To miło, że jesteś z nami, bo ja cały czas myślałam, że zapowiedź twojego udziału w spotkaniu to primaaprilisowy żart”. Z dalszej jej wypowiedzi wynikało, że jestem drugim Polakiem, jakiego w życiu spotkała, pierwszym zaś był niejaki “Andrej” z Lucerny. Jak się okazało, żaden z pozostałych klubowiczów nie mógł się poszczycić nawet taką niewielką znajomością Polski jak Maurizia. Powątpiewając po cichu w polskość owego “Andreja”, zwietrzyłem w tej nieznajomości mojej ojczyzny pewną szansę na dobre ułożenie sobie stosunków z członkami Krimiklub Steinausen. Jeśli oni nie mają pojęcia o Polsce, myślałem, to również nie mają żadnych uprzedzeń wobec Polaków. Mam zatem moją carte blanche. Będzie dobrze!
I miałem rację. Po kilku minutach czułem się pomiędzy nimi jak ryba w wodzie, jakbym ich znał od wielu lat. Temat posiedzenia brzmiał “Kryminały wielkanocne”. Każdy z uczestników spotkania omawiał przez kilka minut jakąś przeczytaną książkę, która mniej lub bardziej mieściła się w formule spotkania. Potem inni wypytywali o autora, o recenzje, o wrażenia. I tak przez półtorej godziny. Ja też zgłaszałem uwagi, zadawałem pytania i komentowałem. Odnosiłem się tylko do jednej z omawianych dziś książek, która była mi znan, a mianowicie do “Mesjasza” Borisa Sterlinga. Podnosiłem też kwestie ogólne jak na przykład – czy drastyczność opisów w powieściach kryminalnych może być uprawiedliwiona wymogami gatunku? Kiedy wspomniałem, że polscy krytycy pastwili się nad naturalizmem opisów w mojej ostatniej książce, członkowie klubu bardzo się zainteresowali moją twórczością. Postanowili, że na następne majowe spotkanie każdy z nich przeczyta jedną moją książkę i będą ze mną rozmawiać o moim cyklu z Mockiem. Obiecali zdobyć jakieś recenzje o mnie na stronie www.krimi-couch.de
Kiedy żegnałem się z sympatycznymi Szwajcarami, była dziewiąta. W głowie miałem mętlik, w ustach – saharę. Myśli zebrałem godzinę później w moim mieszkaniu, kiedy prawie jednym łykiem pochłonąłem pół szklanki zimnego “Heinekena”. I nagle jeszcze bardziej mnie zmroziło, kiedy przypomniałem sobie, że członkowie Krimiklub Steinhausen przed majowym spotkaniem będą czytać stronę www.krimi-couch.de, gdzie niemieccy czytelnicy zmieszali mnie z błotem. I wtedy z nadzieją przypomniałem sobie o szwajcarskiej odrębności. Może moi znajomi Szwajcarzy zachowają niezależność wobec zajadłych niemieckich internautów?

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You can¡¯t really blame us for concentrating almost entirely on women¡¯s bags; they have, for PurseBlog¡¯s entire existence, been much more aesthetically interesting than those made for men. The male-focused accessories market is starting to expand a bit, though, and it¡¯s a great time to be a man in the market for a new bag.

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Reese Witherspoon was recently spotted out and about in Santa Monica with her latest handbag acquisition from Salvatore Ferragamo. Reese's love of the Fiamma is well-documented; she owns at least three of them, and this black leather version is her newest. We love the Fiamma, but I'd still love to ask: Why this bag, Reese? Why this bag, out of all bags?

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We brought you an in-depth look at Chanel¡¯s Cruise 2016 handbag lookbook last week, but when we got to poking around the brand¡¯s website, we realized that wasn¡¯t the full story. The number of small leather goods, including the popular Wallet on Chain (WOC) bags, the brand includes in the seasonal spotlight fluctuates with each collection, and this time, there were quite a few pieces well worth some attention.

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We so rarely get to feature dudes in these celeb round-ups, and when we do feature a men, it¡¯s usually Rich Kid EJ Johnson, flaunting his ridiculously high-end handbag collection. (We get it, EJ. You have great taste in bags.) In recent days, however, we¡¯ve seen several celeb dudes stepping out with the ladies in their lives (and their handbags), or simply using giant designer bags to ferry their personal effects through LAX.

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First Chanel moved into online sales with its sunglasses, and following in its footsteps is Dior, one of the last premier-luxury brands to hold out on e-commerce. In a world where shopping online has become many consumers¡¯ preferred method, it was only a matter of time before Dior took the plunge.


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